Up early headed out to the Bungle Bungles again today.
When we got there we headed in the opposite direction to cathedral gorge, this was another 25km but as we were getting down there we saw what you would expect to see, it was magnificent, so different.
We walked up into cathedral gorge, this trail was beautiful white sand, most beaches would love to have it.
The walk was lovely with going through dark green spinifex grass which was shoulder height.
When we got into the gorge it opened into a natural amphitheater wuth a little pond in the centre.
There was a tour group there while we were there, while everyone was looking about, a man, approx 70yrs, walked to the edge of the pond and started singing.
It was the most unexpected, spine tingling thing, he had rhe most wonderful baritone voice and he sang, how great thow art.
We did the domes trai, walked another 4.8km up to the window then another 1.2km to the lookout, we walked a hell of a lot, took so many photos, it is so different, the colours, you never get sick of looking at them.
We left about 2.30 to drive back, it was my turn to drive today and on the way out we met a lot of people leaving who had camped in the park, most were going like cut snakes and towing camper trailers, I met one as he came over the crest on the wrong side, he hit the brakes but the trailer was coming sideways at me, we figured there always has to be a few cowboys in their new big 4wd, and that would be the last but as we were leaving we met another pack just the same coming in, the worst is when they travel in groups, when one goes past you can't see the ones behind, most times they are on the wrong side.
It is a great experience but it is one of those things that you do once in your life, but not worry about going again.
After dinner and a shower I came back and killed a few cane toads that come into the camp.
Thursday, 29 May 2014
28th May 2014 Bungle Bungles
27th May 2014 Bungle Bungle Caravan Park
On the road again, this time headed for the Bungle Bungle Caravan Park.
We were in the park and set up be approx midday, so we decided to head out to the Bungle Bungles for the afternoon.
It was 53km to the visitor station, that took 11/2 hours, the road was incredible, not only rough snd corrigated but large rocks, creeks, windy, blind corners and steep blind crests.
When we got to the visitor center it was another further 27km to the echidna gorge, it looked the closest and easiest for the afternoon.
When we got there we followed a tour group, the trail was up a creek bed, all very smooth stones of varying sizes, we did pass a perfect bower birds nest ,the gorge was a trail through the cliffs, very narrow, at one point we had to climb over large rocks that had fallen, at the end there was nothing it was like the saying goes, it is the journey not the destination.
Merv and I were both a bit disappointed, there wasn't even a hint of one of the domes you see in pictures that is the Bungle Bungles.
We went onto other lookouts, the rangers were beautiful, green everywhere, I couldn't believe the amount of flowers, but it was not what wehad gone to see, we had seen plenty of beautiful ranges while working at Argyle.
It was a 2 hr trip back from where we were, we were a little late heading back which makes it a lot harder as darkness came on and apart from the road there were cows and kangaroos to watch for.
On the way back we were thinking wow what a road, came over a crest and met a fully laden semi taking diesel out to the visitor centre, it was funny and amazing to watch the truck trying to negotiate the creek and corners, Merv laughed and said he reckons it must belly out going over some of the crests, we were talking to the lady at the visitor centre the next day and she said that the truck did do damage every time it went in.
I wouldn't recommend the caravan park, they charge $30 for a campsite no drinking water, no power and the toilet and showers were in together as an ensuite but they were filthy and stink so bad that you couldn't wait to get out of them.
Anyone going to the Bungle Bungles are brtter off to stay at the free stay down the road, Leicester rest area, and go in from there it is only another 6kms or stsy at Turkey Creek approx 50km up the road, it eould be a lot cheaper and cleaner, when everyone is showering arond dinner time all you can smell is stinking leach drains.
The plus side it was very quiet, just so disappointing being adjacent to an Australian icon that is world famous.
26th May 2014 Leycester Rest Area
It was a very peaceful nights sleep, I was only woken once to a strange noise, when I looked out, there where 2 very large bulls eating the grass around our camp.
After the first coffee we headed off for a walk across the old crossing, we wanted to see how far the old road went, as it turned out a bloody long way, as we walked we came across a lot of mad steers, one lot one side of the road one the other and they didn't know which way to run, there was a huge kangaroo sitting among them, they didn't care about him but they didn't like us.
When we came onto the new road we headed back, just around the corner from the bridge the Tyre marks from the night before and the dead half grown cow, the car driver was lucky it wasn't one of the big bulls it would have been different.
Around lunch time we walked up the river bed for quite a distace, at one tme we were going along checking in the deeper pools for all the fish, there was a lot natives and catfish, when we looked up we were face to face with 2 young bulls, one in particular didn't appear as though he was happy we were there, he was showing all the signs of wanting to get us out of there, it was watch very careful and make our way across to the other side of the river. Further up I had seen signs of cows with young so we kept a closer eye out, they can be nastier than any of them.
We found a nice deep hole, stripped off and had a dip, then headed back. We collected some more firewood on the way back, dry riverbeds are excellent places for wood.
The firepot was lit again, I cooked dinner over it, lamb chops, bubble and squeak with golden syrup dumplings for desert.
25th May 2014 Leycester Rest Area
Left Fitzroy Crossing approx 9am, stopped at a few lookouts, then stopped at Halls Creek for fuel.
Halls Creek was a real surprise, new houses everywhere, no locals sitting around in the park, things looked very clean, different from 5 years ago.
The fuel staton was very busy, dam caravan after caravan of grey nomads, ha ha. It was a Coles fuel which was good it meant we could get our $2 milk and cheaper bread.
When we got to the rest area it was quite full, the rest area is on the upper Ord River before it gets to Lake Argyle, which meant nice clean running water to cool off in, which we did, the water came over a rock that was nicely shoulder height, so sitting back near that was just like a spa.
A walk around before dinner up onto the new bridge around dusk, we did see a lot of cattle about, a truck went passed, as he ronded the corner we noticed he applied brakes, but kept going, it wasn't long after there was a scream of tyres, we waited for the crunch but didn't hear anything, the next momemt a car came around the corner, the driver jumped out, along with 3 kids, checking the front of the car and the drivers side,at a distance we couldn't see any damage, the annoying part was he took off like an idiot with no regard for the safety of his 3 children.
The rest area was made by the locals of Halls Creek in honour of a 13 year old boy who lived in Halls Creek, he was killed in a single car accident at the site, it was named after him with a big photo and information.
We lit the fire pot tonight, first time since we have been away.
Saturday, 24 May 2014
24th May 2014 The Fitzroy River Lodge
Liza's birthday, we were woken around 6am by a couple of people with Harley trikes and trailers leaving the park, these people had a great set up it looked like a normal camping trailer but behind the motor bike, the problem when they left was that one of them decided to idle his bike for around 10 minutes.
Rang Liza approx 8am to wish her a happy birthday, she told me the weather was pretty bad and she was hoping for a bonfire, we shall cross our fingers for her, she also told me about the trouble in Thailand, we haven't heard any news since we left, and isn't it good.
We took our canoes down to the old crossing and headed back up the river towing a lure, Merv caught about 5 fish but no keepers, the first one was a good one but it went under a log, he stripped off, jumped in and tried to get it , no luck.
Returned after approx 5hrs, it had been very peaceful up the river, we did pull up on a bank and found a small crocodile that had been eaten by the aborigines, there was camp fires and the jaw of the crocodile had been wired shut.
Home for coffee and Merv is making laksa for dinner.
23rd May 2014 The Fitzroy River Lodge
Great sleep, very quiet park, we have decided to go out to Geikie Gorge, take the canoes and paddle up the river.
The road is sealed all the way out, apparently it is the only national park up here with sealed road.
The ranger was very friendly and it was a surprise not to be charged to go in to the park, the ranger explained that they didn't like people on the river where the tours go during tour times, but he said it would be a couple of hours so we would be okay.
There is no way I can describe padding up along those beautiful rock walls, no one else around, just the sound of birds and the water against the canoes.
We were right in close to one rock wall and it made a loud crack noise, I decided to stay out a little after that, there is plenty of evidence of rock fall.
We paddled for approx 11/2 hrs then turned back, we didn't see any crocodiles but people on the cruise did. The cruise is very good value for the money $30 for an hour.
Walking around the park around dusk we saw lots of very pretty wallabies, they were called agile wallabies, there was a man with a remote control car, he took it near them, it was funny to watch, when he stpped it they were trying to sniff it and creep up on it.
There is also a lot of bower birds in the trees and around the grounds.
Friday, 23 May 2014
22nd May 2014 Fitzroy Crossing
Dawn chorus to wake to, just wonderful, went for a walk around the lake, watched the birds, talked to a nice couple from Mandurah who is travelling with their 2 young boys, they are doing home schooling and findind it very good, I wish I had.
Breakfast and pack up, head for Fitzroy Crossing.
Booked into The Fitzroy River Lodge, an absolutely beautiful caravan park, it is just over the Fitzroy River, and what a surprise, after driving through town and seeing the locals all sitting around in the park and the state of the town, to find a very large green park with shady trees, great swimming pool, eco tents for people who want to try one of those and motel rooms, there is a beautiful dinning room thats serves dinner every night and a bar that you can get a drink in during dinning hours.
The down side to Fitzroy Crossing is that no one can buy any take away alcohol, the only way to have a drink is in the bar and not until after 6pm, the silly part is anyone can take a ute to Broome, load it up and bring it back to sell to the locals at ridiculous prices.
We drove around checked out the river and where we might be able to get the canoes in, went back for a swim and dinner.
21st May 2014 Lake Rest Area Ellendale
Time to leave Broome, before we left we filled the gas and fuel then went around to the 12 volt shop so Merv could pick up an (air conditioner) as we have had a few very hot nights.
It was 10 am when we went to BWS and Liqorland to get some beer unfortunately they didn't open till 11am, we couldn't be bothered waiting, so we left without beer, just as well we had some nice liqueur whisky.
As we travelled we were both amazed at how green and lush everything still is, we stopped for morning tea break, some fruit and stetch the legs. The Nillibubbica rest area has had a lot of work and money spent on it.
Then on to Willare Bridge Roadhouse where we topped up with fuel and for the first time got some fresh chippies for lunch. This roadhouse has lovely lawn out the front and the fuel only a cent dearer than Broome, but the best thing is they have a nice patio with a fan in it so you can sit there and eat your lunch, right beside a nice pool that you can cool off in, we always like this roadhouse.
We got the camps4 book out to find a park area for the night, we intended to stop at Ellendale rest area, we have stopped there before, there is another one marked in the book, no facilities, approx 8 km from the one we were headed to, as we passed it I noticed it looked peaceful, so after checking the area we intended to go to we turned around and went back.
The area was in through farm gates, it was a sizable lagoon, with birds all round, fish in the lagoon meant many water birds, I saw a spoonbill for only the second time in my life, getting close enough to get a good photo was a different matter. There were dozens of rainbow bee eaters catching insects across the water, no lights about meant the stars looked so bright, it was peaceful as I thought when I first saw it.
The night was marred a bit, when we first arrived and drove in, we drove around the lagoon to a camp area we came across 6 couples of grey nomads in little bus things and caravans, they had set up right in the middle of the road and was not going to let anyone past, another young family came in and tried to drive through the trees, unfortunatly they destroyed some of their fly screens, we went for a walk down the other side and found somewhere to camp, we also met another couple who was mad as hell, I was I wanted to drive straight through their camp and take out their awnings with the bull bar, or drive the cattle through the camp, luckily someone kept saying to all of us don't worry karma will get them. Merv said it was more un- Australian than under arm bowling.
The other thing that happened was Merv fitted his (air conditioner) it was very hot especially in the camper, he sweated like hell didn't stop to drink or rest so by 6 pm he was quite sick and in bed.
20th May 2014 Broome
This is an extra day we decided to stay, as Merv wanted to go to Bunnings and get a few bits and pieces for reinforcing the back tie down area, they weren't too bad but Merv just was happier making it stronger, he also checked all the wiring in the boat and replaced some of the joiners.
It was a good day to relax and to get the camper cleaned out, bed changed and all washing done.
While we mooching around the camp we started talking to one of the neighbors who has been going up to Broome for over 25 years, most of them that was around us goes there for 5 months at a time.
This guy was 83 years old and was telling us where they go fishing, they went out the same day we did but they headed north we went south, they came back with a big bin full of every lovely fish that could be named.
He brought his fishing gear to show us, it was 150lb braid, that was like a cord, they soaked it in water the day before they go to soften it, then when they go out they fish in 100 metres of water with a 16oz sinker and pull the line by hand, by having a hand line they can get it up faster to beat all the sharks. His wife goes doing the same, if she gets one that is a bit too heavy she ties it off on the side till her husband can get it.
This guy still rides his push bike 8 km down to the wharf every morning. I would love to be that fit at that age, most of the people that was there around us would have been similar age, the lady and her sister next to us was 84m I am sure it is following the sun and staying out of the cold that is the secret.
We had lovely golden trevalley cooked in butter with fresh vegetables for dinner.
Monday, 19 May 2014
19th May 2014 Broome
Today we are going to take the boat out, first into the post office and then get some bait and ice.
We headed out approx 10am, waited for the tide to be up enough.
We trolled for quite a while looking for signs of birds working, no birds but we came along a couple of bait balls so we decided yo drop some bait, we weren't having any luck trolling so it was try the bait.
We put out a drift bait on our overheads and a bottom bait on the other rods.
It wasn't long and my drift went mad, it was a shark, we hot rid of that one but it wasn't long before we had another one.
Merv had been checking out a channel on the gps so we decided to move to try to get away from the sharks.
We anchored up in the channel and it wasn't long and Merv caught a small giant trevalley, we both started pulling in the giant trevalley, none if them huge but they put up such a fight.
I had the floating bait out again and it was about 30 minutes Merv pulled in another shark, we caught several one of them quite sizable.
The real fun of the day was when something took my line, my egg beater one with the not so big rod, we both thought a big shark had taken it, the way it ran, it took a lot to slow it without breaking anything, I slowly made a little ground but was finding it hard to hold, Merv got the gimble on me, the fish was running around the back, trying to go under the boat doing everything to get away, at one point Merv was holding on to me so I wouldn't be pulled in.
When we finally got it up it wasa huge catfish, some people eat them, call them silver cobbler, not for us with those huge spines and slime it never came into the boat, cut the line let him go.
When we came in the ramp turned out to be a good one for retrieval, it was very good for launching.
We had a great day perfect weather, when we got back Merv cleaned the boat and flushed the motor we won't use it anymore until Lake Argle
17th May 2014 Broome
Rain and wind during the night with a little thunder, but woke to a reasonable day.
After breakfast we headed for Chinatown to do some shopping, didn't buy a lot but we did go into the ice creamery for a delicious icecream.
Then out to see the dinosaur foot prints, we wandered about and noticed on top of the lighthouse tower there are 2 sea eagle nests, one is so big it takes up the whole top layer, as we watched the eagles came in, one of them with a fish in it's talons.
We drove down onto the far end of cable beach where they launch boats, checking it out for launching for fishing, but there wasn't anywhere that you could park and go away and leave it.
Next it was along to cable beach near the resort, we went for a walk on the beach, checking the rock pools, we didn't go for a swim, it was good to see there is a lifeguard set up near where most of the littlies go.
On the way back we went down to the port to check the boat ramps there, they turned out to be very good ones, we did check some others on the mangrove area but thet weren't any good for a boat our size.
The wharf is often open for people to fish from, they have it closed at the moment for maintenance, apparently big fish are caught from the end of the jetty.
Time for a beer.
18th May 2014 Broome
Early morning coffee and walk up to the local markets approx 3km, they were the typical markets with a lot of stuff from Asia being sold st tourist prices, we came back without buying anything.
After breakfast we headed to Willie Creek for a pearl tour.
The road was not in great condition, when we turned onto the Willie Creek road the normal road was closed off due to high tides so it was a 4wd route.
The talk given by the young lady, Nina, was very interesting and informative, there was refreshments, one of which was their damper.
We were then taken for a cruise through the mangroves and up the river, which is very big, there are 2 crocodiles that live in the river but the tide was too high to see them.
The pearls in the shop were beautiful, I didn't buy anything as I don't wear a lot of what I have.
On the way back we checked out some camping spots on Bard Creek, unfortunatly the road is not the type anyone would want to tow a larger boat or a caravan.
Home for dinner.
Saturday, 17 May 2014
16th May 2014 Broome
When I woke this morning I thought, oh no, we are leaving this paradise today, what could I do to squeeze the last bit of fun and memories from this place, I know I will go fishing.
We had breakfast and packed most of our things, then grabbed our fishing gear and headed for the beach.
The tide was coming in so we were pretty optimistic, hoping to catch another threadfin salmon.
We had our beach rods set up with wire traces and gang hooks, with mullies for bait and using bait saving thread to keep them on, all looked good.
The weather was slightly overcast, but nice.
It was about 30 minutes after we got there we saw a big bust up of bait fish not far from us, then about 5 minutes later I was hit by a Spanish mackerel, it flew out of the water, it was fabulous to see, unfortunatly I didn't have him long and when I pulled my line in to check it the stainless trace was shredded and the gang hooks gone, the power of that fish was incredible.
We didn't stay much longer as with all places they expect you to leave by 10am, but it was a nice finish.
As we were leaving camp we stopped off and had a final icecream with the couple that looked after the park.
They were telling us that it starts to get real busy next month and they get up to 200 caravans in there, some people stay for months.
Broome was our next stop, we booked into the Roebuck Bay caravan park, big, old but clean, people have to be aware of what they have laying around as sometimes some of the locals decide they will pay a visit.
After setting up it was down to a hardware store for a few things, Merv bought a good step for when we leave the camper on the car.
Coles next, we had almost run out of goodies, bought a dead chook and some nice buns for dinner.
It has been surprising to find the prices in coles stores all the way up has been the same as Perth prices.